Green (purple!) Gable Hoodie - part 3

I finished it on the 5th but didn't get any pics until last night. So here it is! =D

Green Gable Hoodie - part 2

Chart B

Chart A

I finally finished it! It's more snug than probably the original pattern called for, but I made an inbetween size. I think that was an issue a lot of people had, it was either too big or too small. So mine is about a 32" with some negative ease....because it's a sweater, not a potato sack!

My version:

What you'll need:
2 hanks - Cascade Yarns Eco+ in color #7072 (478 yds each)
Size 10.5 29" circ needle
Size 10 29" circ needle
Size 10.5 DPN's

Size 9 DPN's
Stitch markers
Stitch holders/safety pins
Embroidery needle (for weaving in ends and grafting)

Gauge in ST st in the round: 15sts x 20 rows = 4"
Finished measurements: 32" bust, 28" waist (worn by a 35" bust and 24" waist)


BODY-
CO 117 sts on size 10 needle, PM, join to knit in round

Starting with a k st, work twisted rib across 15 sts, PM, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), PM, starting with a k st, cont in twisted rib to end of row
Rep row until work measures 2.5" (13 rows)

1: Switch to size 10.5 needle, k15, work row 1 of chart A, k15, PM, k to end
2-8: work in ST st while working respective rows in cable chart
9: k1, ssk, k to M, work chart, k to 3 sts before M, k2tog, k2, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
10-27: rep rows 2-9 2 more times - 105 sts remaining
28-35: work even
36: k1, m1l, work to 1 st before 3rd M, m1r, k2, m1l, k to 1 st before last M, m1r, k1
37-44: work even
45-62: rep rows 33-44 2 more times - 117 remaining
63-66: work even



SLEEVES-
CO 35 sts for right sleeve on size 9 needles, starting with a k st, work twisted rib across 3 sts, PM, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), PM, starting with a k

st, continue in twisted rib to end of row
Rep row until work measures 2.5" (15 rows)

1: Switch to size 10.5 needles, p3, work row 1 of chart A, p4
2-8: p3, work chart, p4
9: pfb, p to M, work chart, p to 1 st before end of row, pfb
10-73: rep rows 2-9 4 more times
74-88: work even - 45 sts remaining
89: p2, sl last 5 sts to st holder

CO for left sleeve in same manner, using chart B



(Join sleeves to body for raglan & yoke shaping)

Back-
1: k2, sl last 5 sts to st holder, k to M, work cable, k13, PM, sl next 5 sts to st holder, join left sleeve, p6, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), p6, PM, k53, PM, join right sleeve, p6, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), p6, PM - 107 sts remaining
2: k1, ssk, k to M, work chart, k to 3 sts before M, k2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, p to M, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), p to 3 sts before M, p2tog, p1, k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before M, k2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, p to M, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), p to 3 sts before M, p2tog, p1
3: work even
4-7: rep rows 2&3 2 more times
8: rep row 2

Place center st on front of sweater on st holder, and split work to work back and forth

(WS)9: work even
(RS)10: k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before M, k2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, p1, (k2, p2 x3), (p2, k2 x3), p1 p2tog, p1, k1, ssk, k to M, work chart, k to 3 sts before M, k2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, p1, (k2, p2 x3), (p2, k2 x3), p1, p2tog, p1, k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end, k2tog, k1
11: work even
12: k to 3 sts before M, k2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, (k2, p2 x3), (p2, k2 x3), p2tog, p1, k1, ssk, k to M, work chart, k to 3 sts before M, k2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, (k2, p2 x3), (p2, k2 x3), p2tog, p1, k1, ssk, k to end
13: work even
14: k1, ssk, k to 4 sts before M, k3tog, k1, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), k1, sssk, k to M, work chart, k to 4 sts before M, k3tog, k1, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), k1, sssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
15: work even
16: k to 4 sts before M, k3tog, k1, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), k1, sssk, k1, work chart, k1, k3tog, k1, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), k1, sssk, k to end
17: work even - remove shoulder M's
18: k1, ssk, k8, PM, k1, sssk, p1, k2, (p2, k2 x2), p4, (k2, p2 x2), k2, p1, k3tog, k1, work chart, k1, sssk, p1, k2, (p2, k2 x2), p4, (k2, p2 x2), k2, p1, k3tog, k1, PM, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
19: work even
20: k to M, k1, sssk, k1, (p2, k2 x2), p4, (k2, p2 x2), k1, k3tog, k1, work chart, k1, sssk, k1, (p2, k2 x2), p4, (k2, p2 x2), k1, k3tog, k to end
21: work even
22: k1, sssk, k to M, k1, sssk, p1, (k2, p2 x2), (p2, k2 x2), p1, k3tog, k1, work chart, k1, sssk, p1, (k2, p2 x2), (p2, k2 x2), p1, k3tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
23: work even
24: k to M, k1, sssk, k1, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k1, k3tog, k1, work chart, k1, sssk, k1, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k1, k3tog, k to end
25: work even
26: k1, ssk, k to M, k1, sssk, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k3tog, k1, work chart, k1, sssk, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k3tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
27: work even
28: k to M, k1, ssk, k2, (p2tog x2), k2, k2tog, k1, work chart, k1, ssk, k2, (p2tog x2), k2, k2tog, k to end
29: work even
30: k1, ssk, k to M, k1, sssk, p2, k3tog, k1, work chart, k1, sssk, p2, k3tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
31: work even
32: k to M, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, work chart, k1, ssk, k2tog, k to end - 50 sts remaining
33-37: work even
38: (k2, m1l x5), k1, work chart, k1, (mir, k2 x5) - 60 sts remaining
39-65: work even

Hood Shaping-
66: k to M, work chart, k to last 3 sts, w&t
67: p to M, work chart, p to last 3 sts, w&t
68: k to M, work chart, k to st before last wrapped st, w&t
69: p to M, work chart, p to st before last wrapped st, w&t
70-93: rep last 2 rows until all ST sts are wrapped, ending on a WS row
94: work to first wrapped st, k wrapped st, w&t
95: sl 1, work to first wrapped st, p wrapped st tbl, w&t
96: sl 1, work to first double wrapped st, k double wrapped st, w&t
97: sl 1, work to first double wrapped st, p double wrapped st tbl, w&t
98-119: rep last 2 rows until 1 double wrapped st remains on each side of work - discontinue working cable chart on row 110. Cont in (p2, k2 X3), p4, (k2, p2 x3)
120: sl 1, work to last double wrapped st, k double wrapped st, k2
121: p2, sl 1, work to last double wrapped st, p double wrapped st tbl, p2

With RS of work facing:
1: Using size 10 needle, sl 1, work across to last st, sl 1, PU and k 44 sts along left of hood, PM, k center front st, PM, PU and k 44 sts along right of hood, PM for end of row - 149 sts remaining
2-3: starting with a p st, work twisted rib across 16 sts, (p2, k2 X3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), starting with a k st, cont in twisted rib to end of row
4: work to 2 sts before M, ssk, k1tbl, k2tog, work to end
5: work even
6: work to 2 sts before M, p2tog, k1tbl, p2tog, work to end
7-8: rep rows 4-5
9: bind off sts to 2 sts before M, p2tog, bind off this and next st, p2tog, continue binding off to end.

With RS of work facing, bind of underarm sts of sleeve and body using Kitchener Bind Off. Weave in ends, block if needed.

GreenGable Hoodie - Part 1

I'm way late in knitting this sweater, but I'm still going to. Despite the fact that Vogue is utterly gay and they took down the pattern to this sweater! Maybe because whoever wrote the Vogue version completely botched it up. I've read so many posts about it and just about every person that has made it has had a problem because of all the errors in the pattern. The designer who made it apparently had a better version, but that is also no longer available to d/l. So I'm making my own version, and it's going to be FREE! But in a 34/36" bust size, with a little waist shaping. And I don't care if I get any flack from the original designer or Vogue. Because that's just too bad they only had the pattern up for a limited time. If you're going to have something on Ravelry and other websites, at least have the decency to link a pattern to it, free or not!!

I'm using Cascade Eco+ Wool, color #7072. I haven't gotten my gauge down yet because I'm still charting the cable and figuring out the stitch count. Maybe in a few days.....







(I hate you Vogue!)


**Update:
I think someone on Ravelry may be sending me the pattern! If that's the case then there will be no need for my own pattern, and that would be super awesome because I'm not that good at making one =( I will still write my own mods for it though. Slightly different construction for the hood, less squared off. So far I haven't seen anyone do quite that with theirs yet.

Concur sweater

Luke and I were in JoAnns Friday. I was looking through a knitting magazine and stumbled across one of my patterns, but it was made by Plymouth Yarns, not Heather Aleo. It was my VS Knock-Off I made nearly 2 years ago, minus the short row bust shaping, and it uses size 7 needles instead of 8. But it's pretty much exact. Pattern #1816. I emailed them, waiting to hear back. I know of another designer this happened to. She makes awesome patterns too! And some cheesy company basically copy and pasted her designed but slapped a different name on it for the pattern. They have since removed it from their list of original designs, so I'm hoping if that's the case with my sweater they'll remove it too.


I finished my Concur sweater!




The buttons pop open. I used too small of buttons, but seriously...a single YO button hole made with a worsted weight yarn on size 8 needles is not going to allow a 1" button through! Maybe 7/8" or 3/4"...but JoAnns doesn't have much for button selection and these were the closest matching ones. At least it's only a cardigan.


I'm still working on my Lillian Tank Top, and I got this awesome half complete sweater from my grandmother. It was intended for one of my brothers when he was 10 or so. He's 27 now. She said I could use the yarn for another project but I had a better idea. Finish it! And I'm almost done with it too! I'm hoping to make a real pattern out of it and submit it somewhere so I can't show it yet, but Luke said, "It's disgustingly cute!" =) She lost the original pattern for it, but I think it was supposed to be a crew neck, long sleeved...mine is going to be different.

Neckwarmers (pattern)

Cabled Neckwarmer

Size: 12" (14") neck, woman's small/medium (woman's medium/large or men's medium)

Finished measurements unstretched: 10" wide x 3-3/4" tall (11-1/2" x 3-3/4")

“Bunny Blend™” custom mill-spun yarn, 190 yds/2oz. sportweight (40% Maine Angora, 60% Soft Merino Sheep Wool)

(approx. 50yds will make a 12", 60yds will make a 14")

Size 8 straight needles

Tapestry needle

[2] 3/4" or 1" buttons

Gauge:29 sts in pattern per 4" (unstretched)5 sts x 6.5 rows in ST per 1"

First and last sts on all wrong side rows are slipped

Using Long Tail CO method, CO 76 (94) sts

Row 1: (WS) SL1, P3, *K4, P6, K4, P4* rep 3 (4) times total, K4, P6, K4, P3, SL1

Row 2: (RS) K4, *P4, K6, P4, K4* rep 4 (5) times total

Row 3: (rep row 1)

Row 4: K4, *P4, C6B, P4, K4* rep 4 (5) times total

Row 5: (rep row 1)

Row 6: (rep row 2)

Row 7: (buttonhole row) SL1, P3, *K4, P6, K4, P4* rep 3 (4) times total, K4, P6, K4, P2, YO2, P1, SL1

Row 8: K1, K1 in double YO dropping 2nd YO, K2tog, *P4, K6, P4, K4* rep 4 (5) times total

Row 9: (rep row 1)

Row 10: (rep row 4)

Row 11: (rep row 1)

Row 12: (rep row 2)

Row 13: (rep row 1)

Row 14: (rep row 2)

Row 15: (rep row 1)

Row 16: (rep row 4)

Row 17: (rep row 1)

Row 18: (rep row 2)

Row 19: (rep row 7)

Row 20: (rep row 8)

Row 21: (rep row 1)

Row 22: (rep row 4)

Row 23: (rep row 1)

Row 24: (rep row 2)

Bo using the "Better Bind Off" method by purl beehttp://www.purlbee.com/the-purl-bee/2008/1/5/whits-knits-a-better-bind-off-tutorial.html
Weave in ends and sew buttons on. Block if needed, but this is meant to stretch to fit snug.

Projects

Luke thought it would be a good idea for me to knit some toys for the babies in our congregation. I made two Kate's and one Sheldon, they came out awesome!






And I finished a 36" sq. baby blanket for one of Luke's cousin's wife.

On the needles is the Camden sweater for my SIL, but I'm doing King Charles Brocade instead of bobbles. I've got about 8" of it done and I'm wicked jealous of it (even though I've already got one!). I used Shine Sport for the yarn and it's going to be one soft sweater. And also something for my brother (but I can't say what it is because if I do and he finds out he's going to say "I don't really wear those" and I'll say "too bad").

Most of my other (knitted) projects: http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r32/XblackResonanceX/Knitting/

VS Knock-Off

And where it's from- http://www2.victoriassecret.com/commerce/onlineProductDisplay.vs?namespace=productDisplay&origin=onlineProductDisplay.jsp&event=display&prnbr=9F-227226&page=1&cgname=OSCLOALSTUR&rfnbr=5190

This is a size Small-Medium and will fit a bust measurement (I think) of 34-37, and hip measurement of 34-37.

(For referrence my bust is 36" and hips are 37". This was supposed to have about +1" of ease, even though the gauge suggests it doesn't...it really does, almost 2", I'm assuming because the seed stitch is very stretchy)

Turtleneck Tunic

Ingredients: (Ha!)
size 6 circ needle
size 8 circ needle, 1 pair DPN's, 1 pair straight needles
stitch markers
627 (about) yds of 4 ply or worsted weight yarn (apparently Cotton-Ease is a 10ply? even though if you split it apart it's only 4)

Gauge:
17sts x 24r on larger needles in seed stitch
__________________________

CO 156 sts with smaller needles, place marker at beg of round and halfway around (78 sts between each M)
Work seed st in round for 1"

Switch to larger needes and work pattern for 2"
Next rnd- dec 1 st before and after m's
Next- work 5 rows in pattern
Rep 11 more times
Work one more dec rnd (104 sts rem)
Work 11 rows in pattern, last row should start with a p1, k1

Start working in 1x1 RK, starting with a k st
Next rnd- M1 st before and after m's
Work 5 rnds in RK
Rep once more

*Turn work for short row shaping, split work in half* (the front will be the second half of your work that is after the second M, not the first)
1(ws)- Sl 1, work to last 2 sts, w&t
2(rs)- work to last 3 sts, w&t
3- work to last 4 sts, w&t
4- work to last 5 sts, w&t
5- work to last 6 sts, w&t
6- work to last 7 sts, w&t
7- work to last 8 sts, w&t
8- work to last 9 sts, w&t
9- work to last 10 sts, w&t
10- work to last 11 sts, w&t
11- work to last 12 sts, w&t
12(rs)- work to last 13 sts, wrap, do not turn, cont working to end picking up wraps with sts (all of the wrap sts will be on a P st on the RS of your work)
Next rnd- M1 before and after m's, At The Same Time work around and pick up rem wraps on the righthand side of your work (this would be the left breast/shoulder), along with 1 rem wrap on the lefthand side
(I'm not sure why that's not worked with the other wraps the first time around, but that's how I wrote it as I was working so there must be a reason for it) ****(ETA: Alright, I remembered that the reason for this is because your last row of wraps is on the right side, you make the final wrap and then cont working around and pick it up on the following row, sorry for any confusion)

Work 5 more rnds
Next rnd- M1 before and after m's
Work 5 more rnds

Divide work, slip 1 sts from back onto front (to have an even pattern)


BACK:
Cast off 4 sts beg next 2 rows
Next row- K1, P1, K2togTBL, work to last 4 sts, K2tog, P1, K1
Work next row in pattern
Rep last 2 rows 3 times more (43 sts rem)
Cont until armhole measure 7" (38 rows)
Cast off 6 sts beg next 2 rows, place 7 sts from center on st holder
Cast off 6 sts, place next 6 sts on st hold.
Attach yarn to other side, cast off 6 sts and place rem 6 sts with the 13 held on st holder


FRONT:
Cast off 5 sts beg next 2 rows
Next row- K1, P1, K2togTBL, work to ast 4 sts, K2tog, P1, K1
Work next row in pattern
Rep last 2 rows once more
Cont until work measures 4.75" from armhole (26 rows)

Right Shoulder:
1(rs)- Work in pattern
2- Work 19 sts, place 9 on st holder, and rem 19 on seperate needle
3- Work in pattern
4- Work 15 sts, place 4 on st holder
5- Work in pattern
6- Cast off 6 sts, work 6 sts, place rem 3 on sts holder
7- Work in pattern
8- BO rem 6 sts

Left Shoulder:
1(rs)- Work 19 sts
2- Work in pattern
3- Work 15 sts, place 4 on st holder
4- Work in pattern
5- Cast off 6 sts, work 6 sts, place rem 3 on st holder
6- Work in pattern
7- BO rem 6 sts

*Seam shoulders together*


NECK: (use size 8 DPN's)
Starting at left shoulder, pick up 3 sts (1 before seam, 2 after seam) to close gap between held sts
P6, PU1 and P
P4, PU1 and P
P9, PU1 and P
P4, PU1 and P
P3, PU3 and P
P19
52 sts total

Work 1x1 RK (do not knit tightly) for 8" (about 40 rows), or desired length, doubled, for turtle neck

BO all sts loosely in RK


SLEEVES: (size 8 DPN's)
PU 40 sts along armhole (18 from the front shoulder, 22 from the back)
1-4 Work in seed st, starting with a K1, P1
5(rs) & 6(ws)- work to last 5 sts, w&t
7-8- work to last 7 sts, w&t
9-10- work to last 9 sts, w&t
11-12- work to last 11 sts, w&t
13-14- work to last 13 sts, w&t
15-16- work to last 15 sts, w&t
17(rs)- work to end picking up wraps with sts
18- cont in seed st, picking up rem wraps
work 1 more row in pattern
BO