New Look #6909

=D I feel like a hot 1940's lady in this, lol (I.E. I usually don't wear very revealing clothes)

Baby Sophisticate (with patterns)

Available on my Ravelry, but I'll post it here too. The sweater is my take on "Baby Sophisticate" by Linden Down, using a sport weight yarn and much smaller needles (Sizes 2 and 4 - hat and socks use the same sizes as well). The hat and socks I could not find a pattern for. I guess for some reason when someone thinks baby items they also think gaudy, bulky and full of design. So these are a bit more simple, the socks are made from the toe up. I do not like the gusset look, so I made them to look like a pair of regular socks, though sport weight is a bit heavy for socks to begin with.

Pattern for the Sweater, Hat and Socks as follows:

Baby Sophisticate sweater
YOKE:
With larger needles, CO 40 sts
Row 1: k3, PM, k5, PM, k24, PM, k5, PM, k3
Row 2 (and all WS rows): p all sts
Row 3 (and every 4th RS row): k1, m1l, *k to 1 st before marker, inc 1, k1, sl m, k1, inc 1, rep from * to last st, m1r, k1
Row 5 (and all non 4th RS rows): *k to 1 st before marker, inc 1, k1,slip m, k1, inc 1, repeat from * to end
Continue raglan shaping, ending on a WS row - 32 rows have been worked, piece measures 4" from neck edge - 176 sts

Split Sleeves:
Row 33: (RS) k to m, place next 35 sts on holder, k to next m, place next 35 sts on holder, k to end - 106 sts for body
Row 34: purl
Continue in ST st, slipping first st of each row, until piece measures 5.5" from underarm, ending with a RS row - 39 rows from underarm

Change to smaller needles- Next 10 rows: (starting on a WS row) knit across. BO sts.

SLEEVES:
With larger needles, pick up and knit 35 sleeve sts, join for round, working 8 rounds in ST st
Dec Rnd: k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1
Work 7 rnds in ST st
Rep last 8 rnds twice more
Rep dec rnd once more - 27 sts rem
Work 3 rnds in ST st
Switch to smaller needles and work Garter st for 10 rnds, starting with a purled row. BO sts

Collar and button band:
With RS facing, PU and knit 53 sts along right front, 38 sts along tops of sleeve and back neck, 53 along left front - 144 sts
Knit 4 rows, placing two markers on each front 32 sts up from edges
Next row: k2, (BO4, k8) twice, BO4, Knit to 1 st before second m, w&t on st before m
Next row: Knit to 1 st before next m, w&t on st before m
Next row: Knit to 4 sts before last w&t, w&t next st
Rep last row 3 times more (you will have wrapped and turned 3 times on each side of the collar)Next row: Knit to wrapped st, working wrap together with st, knit next st and turn
Next row: sl first st, knit to next wrap and knit, working wrap together with st, knit next st and turn
Rep last row 3 times more
Next row: Knit to last wrap, working wrap together with st *Do not turn*, (CO4, k9) twice, CO4, k2
Knit 4 more rows in garter st
BO sts
Note: there will be 2 extra rows on the left front button band than on the right due to the short row shaping. For a boys sweater this is not a problem since it closes left over right. For a girls sweater start the short row shaping on a RS row (Knit 3 rows in the beginning instead of 4).


HAT:
CO 80 sts, join for round
With smaller needles, work 8 rows in 2x2 ribknit
Switch to larger needles and work 20 rows in ST st

Shaping:
Rnd 29: (k8, k2tog) across
30 and all even numbered rnds: knit
31: (k7, k2tog) across
33: (k6, k2tog) across
35: (k5, k2tog) across
37: (k4, k2tog) across
39: (k3, k2tog) across
40: (k2, k2tog) across
41: (k1, k2tog) across
43 & 45: (k2tog) across - pull yarn through rem 4 sts and secure
Pompom optional but it's made on a circle 1.75" in diameter

Finished measurements:
Circumference: 13"
Length: 5.5"


SOCKS:
(Made with shortrow shaping at toe and heel)
Using crochet cast-on, CO 14 sts
Row 1 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 2 [RS]: K to last st, W&T.
Row 3 [WS]: P to last st, W&T.
Row 4 [RS]: K to st before last wrapped st, W&T.
Row 5 [WS]: P to st before last wrapped st, W&T.
Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until 4 sts remain unwrapped between wrapped sts on either side of work. You will be ready to start a RS row.
Row 6 [RS]: K to first wrapped st, k wrapped st, W&T.
Row 7 [WS]: Sl 1, p to first wrapped st, p wrapped st, W&T.
Row 8 [RS]: Sl 1, k to first double-wrapped st, k double-wrapped st, W&T.
Row 9 [WS]: Sl 1, p to first double-wrapped st, p double-wrapped st, W&T.
Repeat Rows 8 and 9 until one double-wrapped stitch remains at each end of work.
Row 10 [RS]: Sl 1, k to double-wrapped st, k double-wrapped st. Do not turn work.* (Work wraps of remaining double-wrapped st together with st when working first round of foot.)Carefully remove crochet chain from CO edge of work, and place the 14 live sts on two double-point needles, or one circular needle. There should now be 28 sts on the needles.

Work 13 rounds in ST st, then repeat short row shaping as indicated above, for the heel.

Ankle: Work 2 rounds in ST st
Cuff: switch to smaller needles and work 16 rounds in 2x2 ribknit. BO sts loosely

Finished measurements:
Foot length: 3.75"
Total length: 6.75"
Circumference at cuff: 5" slightly stretched - At foot: 4"

The blanket is "Cable Blanket" by Debbie Bliss, published in Simply Baby. I cast on for 9 cable repeats, a total of 156 stitches. It's an 8-stitch wide cable, repeated every 12 rows (if I'm remembering correctly. The edges of garter stitch as well as the ribknit panels are 4 stitches wide, and there are 2 purl stitches on either edge of each cable. - At least that was my interpretation of it. I couldn't get ahold of the book or pattern, so it may be a little different than that.

Cozy Alpaca V-neck!

The arms look extremely long but because of the RK they shrink up a lot. They're long enough to cover the first inch of my hand (and I have short arms).

=D Finally! It took me 3 months to finish, slow for me, but I had so much going on. It's the Cozy V-neck from Fitted Knits, a few modifications. It was exactly how I wanted it to look. I still have 2 more sweaters in the process. A tanktop from Knitty and the other is a Victoria's Secret knockoff I'm writing the pattern for and hopefully I'll have enough time to submit it to Knitty or a magazine for a Winter issue...hopefully! But probably not =/ Isn't the deadline for those sometime in mid September?

Also a baby sweater. That's going pretty well, the body is complete up to the underarms and I just cast on for the first sleeve this morning. It's going slow considering the size because I have no idea what the measurements are for a 6 month size, and most of the patterns I've come across are incomplete when it comes to the schematics (stupid designers!), but I've got it pretty much figured out. I've been watching Hell's Kitchen while working on that. (I want to put a knife through the screen and stab Elise over and over, then burn her remains! ...Yes I'm a few episodes behind.)

Green (purple!) Gable Hoodie - part 3

I finished it on the 5th but didn't get any pics until last night. So here it is! =D

Green Gable Hoodie - part 2

Chart B

Chart A

I finally finished it! It's more snug than probably the original pattern called for, but I made an inbetween size. I think that was an issue a lot of people had, it was either too big or too small. So mine is about a 32" with some negative ease....because it's a sweater, not a potato sack!

My version:

What you'll need:
2 hanks - Cascade Yarns Eco+ in color #7072 (478 yds each)
Size 10.5 29" circ needle
Size 10 29" circ needle
Size 10.5 DPN's

Size 9 DPN's
Stitch markers
Stitch holders/safety pins
Embroidery needle (for weaving in ends and grafting)

Gauge in ST st in the round: 15sts x 20 rows = 4"
Finished measurements: 32" bust, 28" waist (worn by a 35" bust and 24" waist)


BODY-
CO 117 sts on size 10 needle, PM, join to knit in round

Starting with a k st, work twisted rib across 15 sts, PM, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), PM, starting with a k st, cont in twisted rib to end of row
Rep row until work measures 2.5" (13 rows)

1: Switch to size 10.5 needle, k15, work row 1 of chart A, k15, PM, k to end
2-8: work in ST st while working respective rows in cable chart
9: k1, ssk, k to M, work chart, k to 3 sts before M, k2tog, k2, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
10-27: rep rows 2-9 2 more times - 105 sts remaining
28-35: work even
36: k1, m1l, work to 1 st before 3rd M, m1r, k2, m1l, k to 1 st before last M, m1r, k1
37-44: work even
45-62: rep rows 33-44 2 more times - 117 remaining
63-66: work even



SLEEVES-
CO 35 sts for right sleeve on size 9 needles, starting with a k st, work twisted rib across 3 sts, PM, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), PM, starting with a k

st, continue in twisted rib to end of row
Rep row until work measures 2.5" (15 rows)

1: Switch to size 10.5 needles, p3, work row 1 of chart A, p4
2-8: p3, work chart, p4
9: pfb, p to M, work chart, p to 1 st before end of row, pfb
10-73: rep rows 2-9 4 more times
74-88: work even - 45 sts remaining
89: p2, sl last 5 sts to st holder

CO for left sleeve in same manner, using chart B



(Join sleeves to body for raglan & yoke shaping)

Back-
1: k2, sl last 5 sts to st holder, k to M, work cable, k13, PM, sl next 5 sts to st holder, join left sleeve, p6, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), p6, PM, k53, PM, join right sleeve, p6, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), p6, PM - 107 sts remaining
2: k1, ssk, k to M, work chart, k to 3 sts before M, k2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, p to M, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), p to 3 sts before M, p2tog, p1, k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before M, k2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, p to M, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), p to 3 sts before M, p2tog, p1
3: work even
4-7: rep rows 2&3 2 more times
8: rep row 2

Place center st on front of sweater on st holder, and split work to work back and forth

(WS)9: work even
(RS)10: k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before M, k2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, p1, (k2, p2 x3), (p2, k2 x3), p1 p2tog, p1, k1, ssk, k to M, work chart, k to 3 sts before M, k2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, p1, (k2, p2 x3), (p2, k2 x3), p1, p2tog, p1, k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end, k2tog, k1
11: work even
12: k to 3 sts before M, k2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, (k2, p2 x3), (p2, k2 x3), p2tog, p1, k1, ssk, k to M, work chart, k to 3 sts before M, k2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, (k2, p2 x3), (p2, k2 x3), p2tog, p1, k1, ssk, k to end
13: work even
14: k1, ssk, k to 4 sts before M, k3tog, k1, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), k1, sssk, k to M, work chart, k to 4 sts before M, k3tog, k1, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), k1, sssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
15: work even
16: k to 4 sts before M, k3tog, k1, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), k1, sssk, k1, work chart, k1, k3tog, k1, (p2, k2 x3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), k1, sssk, k to end
17: work even - remove shoulder M's
18: k1, ssk, k8, PM, k1, sssk, p1, k2, (p2, k2 x2), p4, (k2, p2 x2), k2, p1, k3tog, k1, work chart, k1, sssk, p1, k2, (p2, k2 x2), p4, (k2, p2 x2), k2, p1, k3tog, k1, PM, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
19: work even
20: k to M, k1, sssk, k1, (p2, k2 x2), p4, (k2, p2 x2), k1, k3tog, k1, work chart, k1, sssk, k1, (p2, k2 x2), p4, (k2, p2 x2), k1, k3tog, k to end
21: work even
22: k1, sssk, k to M, k1, sssk, p1, (k2, p2 x2), (p2, k2 x2), p1, k3tog, k1, work chart, k1, sssk, p1, (k2, p2 x2), (p2, k2 x2), p1, k3tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
23: work even
24: k to M, k1, sssk, k1, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k1, k3tog, k1, work chart, k1, sssk, k1, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k1, k3tog, k to end
25: work even
26: k1, ssk, k to M, k1, sssk, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k3tog, k1, work chart, k1, sssk, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k3tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
27: work even
28: k to M, k1, ssk, k2, (p2tog x2), k2, k2tog, k1, work chart, k1, ssk, k2, (p2tog x2), k2, k2tog, k to end
29: work even
30: k1, ssk, k to M, k1, sssk, p2, k3tog, k1, work chart, k1, sssk, p2, k3tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
31: work even
32: k to M, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, work chart, k1, ssk, k2tog, k to end - 50 sts remaining
33-37: work even
38: (k2, m1l x5), k1, work chart, k1, (mir, k2 x5) - 60 sts remaining
39-65: work even

Hood Shaping-
66: k to M, work chart, k to last 3 sts, w&t
67: p to M, work chart, p to last 3 sts, w&t
68: k to M, work chart, k to st before last wrapped st, w&t
69: p to M, work chart, p to st before last wrapped st, w&t
70-93: rep last 2 rows until all ST sts are wrapped, ending on a WS row
94: work to first wrapped st, k wrapped st, w&t
95: sl 1, work to first wrapped st, p wrapped st tbl, w&t
96: sl 1, work to first double wrapped st, k double wrapped st, w&t
97: sl 1, work to first double wrapped st, p double wrapped st tbl, w&t
98-119: rep last 2 rows until 1 double wrapped st remains on each side of work - discontinue working cable chart on row 110. Cont in (p2, k2 X3), p4, (k2, p2 x3)
120: sl 1, work to last double wrapped st, k double wrapped st, k2
121: p2, sl 1, work to last double wrapped st, p double wrapped st tbl, p2

With RS of work facing:
1: Using size 10 needle, sl 1, work across to last st, sl 1, PU and k 44 sts along left of hood, PM, k center front st, PM, PU and k 44 sts along right of hood, PM for end of row - 149 sts remaining
2-3: starting with a p st, work twisted rib across 16 sts, (p2, k2 X3), p4, (k2, p2 x3), starting with a k st, cont in twisted rib to end of row
4: work to 2 sts before M, ssk, k1tbl, k2tog, work to end
5: work even
6: work to 2 sts before M, p2tog, k1tbl, p2tog, work to end
7-8: rep rows 4-5
9: bind off sts to 2 sts before M, p2tog, bind off this and next st, p2tog, continue binding off to end.

With RS of work facing, bind of underarm sts of sleeve and body using Kitchener Bind Off. Weave in ends, block if needed.

GreenGable Hoodie - Part 1

I'm way late in knitting this sweater, but I'm still going to. Despite the fact that Vogue is utterly gay and they took down the pattern to this sweater! Maybe because whoever wrote the Vogue version completely botched it up. I've read so many posts about it and just about every person that has made it has had a problem because of all the errors in the pattern. The designer who made it apparently had a better version, but that is also no longer available to d/l. So I'm making my own version, and it's going to be FREE! But in a 34/36" bust size, with a little waist shaping. And I don't care if I get any flack from the original designer or Vogue. Because that's just too bad they only had the pattern up for a limited time. If you're going to have something on Ravelry and other websites, at least have the decency to link a pattern to it, free or not!!

I'm using Cascade Eco+ Wool, color #7072. I haven't gotten my gauge down yet because I'm still charting the cable and figuring out the stitch count. Maybe in a few days.....







(I hate you Vogue!)


**Update:
I think someone on Ravelry may be sending me the pattern! If that's the case then there will be no need for my own pattern, and that would be super awesome because I'm not that good at making one =( I will still write my own mods for it though. Slightly different construction for the hood, less squared off. So far I haven't seen anyone do quite that with theirs yet.

Concur sweater

Luke and I were in JoAnns Friday. I was looking through a knitting magazine and stumbled across one of my patterns, but it was made by Plymouth Yarns, not Heather Aleo. It was my VS Knock-Off I made nearly 2 years ago, minus the short row bust shaping, and it uses size 7 needles instead of 8. But it's pretty much exact. Pattern #1816. I emailed them, waiting to hear back. I know of another designer this happened to. She makes awesome patterns too! And some cheesy company basically copy and pasted her designed but slapped a different name on it for the pattern. They have since removed it from their list of original designs, so I'm hoping if that's the case with my sweater they'll remove it too.


I finished my Concur sweater!




The buttons pop open. I used too small of buttons, but seriously...a single YO button hole made with a worsted weight yarn on size 8 needles is not going to allow a 1" button through! Maybe 7/8" or 3/4"...but JoAnns doesn't have much for button selection and these were the closest matching ones. At least it's only a cardigan.


I'm still working on my Lillian Tank Top, and I got this awesome half complete sweater from my grandmother. It was intended for one of my brothers when he was 10 or so. He's 27 now. She said I could use the yarn for another project but I had a better idea. Finish it! And I'm almost done with it too! I'm hoping to make a real pattern out of it and submit it somewhere so I can't show it yet, but Luke said, "It's disgustingly cute!" =) She lost the original pattern for it, but I think it was supposed to be a crew neck, long sleeved...mine is going to be different.